5 days in Edinburgh

Day by day

1. Day 1: Edinburgh Castle and The Royal Mile

   Edinburgh Castle, The Royal Mile and St Giles' Cathedral, then Victoria Street and the Grassmarket in the evening.

   1. Morning

      Edinburgh Castle

      Head straight to the Crown Room for the Honours of Scotland before the queues build, then circle back to the views from the batteries. (2–3 hours, mid-priced).

   2. Late morning

      The Royal Mile

      Duck into the closes off the main street; many open onto quiet courtyards and views over the New Town. (2–3 hours, free).

   3. Lunch

      Lunch: Haggis, neeps and tatties

      Traditional pubs and Scottish restaurants across the Old Town; also as part of a cooked breakfast.

   4. Afternoon

      St Giles' Cathedral

      Entry is free; ask a guide to point out the bagpipe-playing angel in the Thistle Chapel. (45 minutes, free).

   5. Evening

      Victoria Street and the Grassmarket

      Come early in the morning for photographs without crowds, then return in the evening for the Grassmarket pubs.

2. Day 2: Palace of Holyroodhouse and Dynamic Earth

   Palace of Holyroodhouse, Dynamic Earth and Calton Hill, then Grassmarket and Cowgate in the evening.

   1. Morning

      Palace of Holyroodhouse

      Check dates before you go: the palace closes to visitors during royal visits, usually in early summer. (1.5–2 hours, mid-priced).

   2. Late morning

      Dynamic Earth

      Pair it with a walk in Holyrood Park next door to see real volcanic rock on Salisbury Crags. (2 hours, mid-priced).

   3. Lunch

      Lunch: Cullen skink

      Pubs and Scottish restaurants, often as a starter with bread.

   4. Afternoon

      Calton Hill

      Go at sunset or sunrise; the steps up from Regent Road take about five minutes. (45 minutes, free).

   5. Evening

      Grassmarket and Cowgate

      Historic pubs with outdoor tables below the castle, and late-night clubs and student bars along the Cowgate.

3. Day 3: Princes Street Gardens and the Scott Monument and Scottish National Gallery

   Princes Street Gardens and the Scott Monument, Scottish National Gallery and Royal Yacht Britannia, then George Street and the New Town in the evening.

   1. Morning

      Princes Street Gardens and the Scott Monument

      The monument's spiral stairs become very narrow near the top; skip the climb if you dislike tight spaces. (1 hour, free).

   2. Late morning

      Scottish National Gallery

      Combine it with a walk through Princes Street Gardens; the gallery's lower level opens straight onto them. (1.5–2 hours, free).

   3. Lunch

      Lunch: Full Scottish breakfast

      Cafés and hotels across the city.

   4. Afternoon

      Royal Yacht Britannia

      Take the tram to Ocean Terminal and combine the visit with lunch on the Shore. (2 hours, mid-priced).

   5. Evening

      George Street and the New Town

      Cocktail bars, wine bars and smart restaurants in grand Georgian buildings.

4. Day 4: Day trip to Stirling

   About 50 minutes by train each way. Getting there: ScotRail train from Waverley.

   1. Morning

      Travel to Stirling

      About 50 minutes by train (ScotRail train from Waverley); about 60 km.

   2. Day

      Stirling

      Stirling Castle, where Mary, Queen of Scots was crowned and Renaissance kings held court, stands on a crag above the battlefields of Stirling Bridge and Bannockburn. Best for culture, first-timers and families.

   3. Evening

      Back in Edinburgh

      Dinner: try Scotch whisky.

5. Day 5: Arthur's Seat and National Museum of Scotland

   Arthur's Seat, National Museum of Scotland and Dean Village, then Leith in the evening.

   1. Morning

      Arthur's Seat

      Take the gentler route from Dunsapie Loch with children or if short on time, and avoid the summit rocks in strong wind or wet weather. (2 hours, free).

   2. Late morning

      National Museum of Scotland

      Start children in the hands-on science and technology galleries, then go up to the roof terrace for the castle view. (2–3 hours, free).

   3. Lunch

      Lunch: Scotch whisky

      Whisky bars in the Old Town and Leith, and the Scotch Whisky Experience by the castle esplanade.

   4. Afternoon

      Dean Village

      Walk from Dean Village to Stockbridge along the river path, then return via Circus Lane, a curving mews of painted doors. (1–2 hours, free).

   5. Evening

      Leith

      Waterfront pubs, craft-beer bars and small music venues along the Shore and Leith Walk.

Before you go

Reserve timed tickets for Edinburgh Castle before you travel; the rest of this plan needs no advance booking.

Where to stay for this itinerary

With 5 nights, Old Town keeps most of this route within easy reach. For a calmer or cheaper base, New Town ($$$$) suits first-timers, shopping, luxury and families. Compare every area.

Pace and daylight

The sights in this plan add up to roughly 20–25 hours of visiting over 5 days, before meals and getting between them. Daylight runs from about 7 hours in December to 17.6 hours in June, so in winter start early and keep museums for the afternoon.

More or fewer days

• One day in Edinburgh
• 2 days in Edinburgh
• 3 days in Edinburgh
• 4 days in Edinburgh

Questions travellers ask