4 days in Edinburgh

Day by day

1. Day 1: Edinburgh Castle and The Royal Mile

   Edinburgh Castle, The Royal Mile and St Giles' Cathedral, then Victoria Street and the Grassmarket in the evening.

   1. Morning

      Edinburgh Castle

      Allow 2–3 hours (mid-priced). Head straight to the Crown Room for the Honours of Scotland before the queues build, then circle back to the views from the batteries.

   2. Late morning

      The Royal Mile

      Narrow closes such as Advocate's Close and Lady Stair's Close lead off it, and in August its central stretch becomes an open-air stage for Fringe performers.

   3. Lunch

      Lunch: Haggis, neeps and tatties

      Traditional pubs and Scottish restaurants across the Old Town; also as part of a cooked breakfast.

   4. Afternoon

      St Giles' Cathedral

      Allow 45 minutes (free). Entry is free; ask a guide to point out the bagpipe-playing angel in the Thistle Chapel.

   5. Evening

      Victoria Street and the Grassmarket

      Come early in the morning for photographs without crowds, then return in the evening for the Grassmarket pubs.

2. Day 2: National Museum of Scotland and Greyfriars Kirkyard

   National Museum of Scotland, Greyfriars Kirkyard and Camera Obscura and World of Illusions, then Grassmarket and Cowgate in the evening.

   1. Morning

      National Museum of Scotland

      Highlights include Dolly the sheep, several of the 12th-century Lewis chessmen and the glass-roofed Victorian Grand Gallery. Entry is free, and the roof terrace has a castle view.

   2. Late morning

      Greyfriars Kirkyard

      Allow 45 minutes (free). Look for the carved memento mori on the tombs along the walls, and stop at Bobby's statue on Candlemaker Row on the way out.

   3. Lunch

      Lunch: Cullen skink

      Pubs and Scottish restaurants, often as a starter with bread.

   4. Afternoon

      Camera Obscura and World of Illusions

      Beside the castle at the top of the Royal Mile, the Camera Obscura has projected live images of the city onto a viewing table since 1853, and five floors of optical illusions, mirror mazes and a spinning vortex tunnel sit below its rooftop terrace.

   5. Evening

      Grassmarket and Cowgate

      Historic pubs with outdoor tables below the castle, and late-night clubs and student bars along the Cowgate.

3. Day 3: The Real Mary King's Close and Palace of Holyroodhouse

   The Real Mary King's Close, Palace of Holyroodhouse and Dynamic Earth, then George Street and the New Town in the evening.

   1. Morning

      The Real Mary King's Close

      Allow 1 hour (mid-priced). Check the minimum age before booking with young children; some find the dark rooms frightening.

   2. Late morning

      Palace of Holyroodhouse

      The roofless ruins of 12th-century Holyrood Abbey stand beside it.

   3. Lunch

      Lunch: Full Scottish breakfast

      Cafés and hotels across the city.

   4. Afternoon

      Dynamic Earth

      Allow 2 hours (mid-priced). Pair it with a walk in Holyrood Park next door to see real volcanic rock on Salisbury Crags.

   5. Evening

      George Street and the New Town

      Cocktail bars, wine bars and smart restaurants in grand Georgian buildings.

4. Day 4: Day trip to Stirling

   About 50 minutes by train each way. Getting there: ScotRail train from Waverley.

   1. Morning

      Travel to Stirling

      About 50 minutes by train (ScotRail train from Waverley); about 60 km.

   2. Day

      Stirling

      Stirling Castle, where Mary, Queen of Scots was crowned and Renaissance kings held court, stands on a crag above the battlefields of Stirling Bridge and Bannockburn. The National Wallace Monument rises on a wooded hill a short bus ride from the town.

   3. Evening

      Back in Edinburgh

      Dinner: try Scotch whisky.

Before you go

Reserve timed tickets for Edinburgh Castle and The Real Mary King's Close before you travel; the rest of this plan needs no advance booking.

Where to stay for this itinerary

With 4 nights, Old Town keeps most of this route within easy reach. For a calmer or cheaper base, New Town ($$$$) suits first-timers, shopping, luxury and families. Compare every area.

Pace and daylight

The sights in this plan add up to roughly 15–19 hours of visiting over 4 days, before meals and getting between them. Daylight runs from about 7 hours in December to 17.6 hours in June, so in winter start early and keep museums for the afternoon.

More or fewer days

• One day in Edinburgh
• 2 days in Edinburgh
• 3 days in Edinburgh
• 5 days in Edinburgh

Questions travellers ask