5 days in Palermo

Day by day

1. Day 1: Palazzo dei Normanni and the Palatine Chapel and Ballarò market

   Palazzo dei Normanni and the Palatine Chapel, Ballarò market and San Giovanni degli Eremiti, then Quattro Canti in the evening.

   1. Morning

      Palazzo dei Normanni and the Palatine Chapel

      Arrive early, cover shoulders and knees for the chapel, and check which days the royal apartments are included. (2 hours, mid-priced).

   2. Late morning

      Ballarò market

      Go mid-morning, keep bags zipped and eat as you go: a paper cone of panelle or a grilled octopus tentacle costs a few euros. (1–2 hours, free).

   3. Lunch

      Lunch: Arancine

      Bars, rosticcerie and street stalls everywhere; ask for 'accarne' or 'abburro'.

   4. Afternoon

      San Giovanni degli Eremiti

      Visit straight after the Norman Palace; it is a few minutes' walk away and rarely crowded. (30–45 minutes, low cost).

   5. Evening

      Quattro Canti

      Pass by early in the morning and again after dark, when the facades are lit and the traffic eases.

2. Day 2: Palermo Cathedral and Mercato del Capo

   Palermo Cathedral, Mercato del Capo and Monreale Cathedral and Cloister, then Teatro Massimo in the evening.

   1. Morning

      Palermo Cathedral

      Walk the roof terraces late in the afternoon for views over the domes towards Monte Pellegrino. (1–1.5 hours, low cost).

   2. Late morning

      Mercato del Capo

      Combine it with the Teatro Massimo and the cathedral, both a few minutes' walk away. (1 hour, free).

   3. Lunch

      Lunch: Pane e panelle

      Market stalls at Ballarò and the Capo and friggitorie across the old town.

   4. Afternoon

      Monreale Cathedral and Cloister

      Allow half a day including the bus ride from Piazza Indipendenza, and buy the tickets for the cloister and the roof as well as the nave. (Half a day, low cost).

   5. Evening

      Teatro Massimo

      Take the guided tour if you cannot catch a performance; the steps outside are a classic evening meeting point.

3. Day 3: Mondello beach and Fontana Pretoria

   Mondello beach, Fontana Pretoria and La Martorana and San Cataldo, then Opera dei Pupi puppet theatre in the evening.

   1. Morning

      Mondello beach

      Go on a weekday morning; on summer weekends half of Palermo heads to the beach and traffic jams build on the road from the city. (Half a day, free).

   2. Late morning

      Fontana Pretoria

      Combine it with La Martorana and San Cataldo, which face the neighbouring Piazza Bellini. (20 minutes, free).

   3. Lunch

      Lunch: Pani ca' meusa

      Specialist stalls and focaccerie, especially around the markets and the old harbour.

   4. Afternoon

      La Martorana and San Cataldo

      Visit San Cataldo first; its bare stone interior makes the Martorana's gold all the more striking. (45 minutes, low cost).

   5. Evening

      Opera dei Pupi puppet theatre

      Shows last about an hour and are easy to follow without Italian; children love the battle scenes.

4. Day 4: Day trip to Cefalù

   About 1 hour by train each way. Getting there: Regional train from Palermo Centrale.

   1. Morning

      Travel to Cefalù

      About 1 hour by train (Regional train from Palermo Centrale); about 70 km.

   2. Day

      Cefalù

      A seaside town below a huge limestone crag, Cefalù has a Norman cathedral with a golden Christ Pantocrator mosaic, part of the same UNESCO listing as Palermo, a medieval washhouse fed by a spring and a sandy town beach. Best for beach, culture, families and couples.

   3. Evening

      Back in Palermo

      Dinner: try Sfincione.

5. Day 5: Capuchin Catacombs and Palazzo Abatellis (Galleria Regionale della Sicilia)

   Capuchin Catacombs, Palazzo Abatellis (Galleria Regionale della Sicilia) and Monte Pellegrino and the Sanctuary of Santa Rosalia, then Vucciria in the evening.

   1. Morning

      Capuchin Catacombs

      It is macabre and not suitable for young children or the squeamish; photography is not allowed. (45 minutes, low cost).

   2. Late morning

      Palazzo Abatellis (Galleria Regionale della Sicilia)

      Combine it with a walk through the Kalsa to Piazza Magione and the Foro Italico seafront. (1.5 hours, low cost).

   3. Lunch

      Lunch: Sfincione

      Bakeries, street vendors and the Capo market.

   4. Afternoon

      Monte Pellegrino and the Sanctuary of Santa Rosalia

      Take a bus or taxi up and walk down the old pilgrim path for changing views over the city. (Half a day, free).

   5. Evening

      Vucciria

      Piazza Caracciolo and the surrounding lanes become an open-air bar after dark, with grills, cheap beer and loud music.

Before you go

Reserve timed tickets for Palazzo dei Normanni and the Palatine Chapel before you travel; the rest of this plan needs no advance booking.

Where to stay for this itinerary

With 5 nights, Via Maqueda and Quattro Canti keeps most of this route within easy reach. For a calmer or cheaper base, Kalsa ($$) suits culture, nightlife and couples. Compare every area.

Pace and daylight

The sights in this plan add up to roughly 20–25 hours of visiting over 5 days, before meals and getting between them. Daylight runs from about 9.5 hours in December to 14.8 hours in June, so in winter start early and keep museums for the afternoon.

More or fewer days

• One day in Palermo
• 2 days in Palermo
• 3 days in Palermo

Questions travellers ask