3 days in Palermo

Day by day

1. Day 1: Palazzo dei Normanni and the Palatine Chapel and Ballarò market

   Palazzo dei Normanni and the Palatine Chapel, Ballarò market and San Giovanni degli Eremiti, then Quattro Canti in the evening.

   1. Morning

      Palazzo dei Normanni and the Palatine Chapel

      The Norman kings' palace, today the seat of the Sicilian Regional Assembly, holds the Cappella Palatina, consecrated in 1140, where gold Byzantine mosaics cover the walls and a wooden muqarnas ceiling made by Arab craftsmen is painted with scenes of court life.

   2. Late morning

      Ballarò market

      Go mid-morning, keep bags zipped and eat as you go: a paper cone of panelle or a grilled octopus tentacle costs a few euros.

   3. Lunch

      Lunch: Arancine

      Bars, rosticcerie and street stalls everywhere; ask for 'accarne' or 'abburro'.

   4. Afternoon

      San Giovanni degli Eremiti

      Five red domes rise above a lush garden of citrus, palms and roses at this 12th-century Norman church near the Norman Palace, built with clear Arab influences.

   5. Evening

      Quattro Canti

      Pass by early in the morning and again after dark, when the facades are lit and the traffic eases.

2. Day 2: Palermo Cathedral and Mercato del Capo

   Palermo Cathedral, Mercato del Capo and Monreale Cathedral and Cloister, then Teatro Massimo in the evening.

   1. Morning

      Palermo Cathedral

      Walk the roof terraces late in the afternoon for views over the domes towards Monte Pellegrino.

   2. Late morning

      Mercato del Capo

      Behind the cathedral, the Capo market runs along Via Porta Carini and Via Beati Paoli with fish, meat, produce, olives and household goods, and it is a little less crowded with visitors than Ballarò.

   3. Lunch

      Lunch: Pane e panelle

      Market stalls at Ballarò and the Capo and friggitorie across the old town.

   4. Afternoon

      Monreale Cathedral and Cloister

      Allow half a day including the bus ride from Piazza Indipendenza, and buy the tickets for the cloister and the roof as well as the nave.

   5. Evening

      Teatro Massimo

      Take the guided tour if you cannot catch a performance; the steps outside are a classic evening meeting point.

3. Day 3: Mondello beach and Fontana Pretoria

   Mondello beach, Fontana Pretoria and La Martorana and San Cataldo, then Opera dei Pupi puppet theatre in the evening.

   1. Morning

      Mondello beach

      Palermo's city beach is a long crescent of pale sand and shallow, turquoise water between the headlands of Monte Pellegrino and Monte Gallo.

   2. Late morning

      Fontana Pretoria

      Combine it with La Martorana and San Cataldo, which face the neighbouring Piazza Bellini.

   3. Lunch

      Lunch: Pani ca' meusa

      Specialist stalls and focaccerie, especially around the markets and the old harbour.

   4. Afternoon

      La Martorana and San Cataldo

      On Piazza Bellini, the church of Santa Maria dell'Ammiraglio, known as La Martorana, was founded in the 1140s by King Roger's admiral, George of Antioch, and its Byzantine mosaics include a rare image of Roger II being crowned by Christ.

   5. Evening

      Opera dei Pupi puppet theatre

      Shows last about an hour and are easy to follow without Italian; children love the battle scenes.

Before you go

• Palazzo dei Normanni and the Palatine Chapel: Queues can be long in high season; buy a timed ticket online before you go.

If it rains

• Swap in Capuchin Catacombs (Cappuccini): It is macabre and not suitable for young children or the squeamish; photography is not allowed.
• Swap in Palazzo Abatellis (Galleria Regionale della Sicilia) (Kalsa): Combine it with a walk through the Kalsa to Piazza Magione and the Foro Italico seafront.
• Swap in Antonio Salinas Archaeological Museum (Olivella): Head to the Selinunte rooms first; the metopes are the highlight of the collection.

Where to stay for this itinerary

With 3 nights, Via Maqueda and Quattro Canti keeps most of this route within easy reach. For a calmer or cheaper base, Kalsa ($$) suits culture, nightlife and couples. Compare every area.

Pace and daylight

The sights in this plan add up to roughly 15–18 hours of visiting over 3 days, before meals and getting between them. Daylight runs from about 9.5 hours in December to 14.8 hours in June, so in winter start early and keep museums for the afternoon.

More or fewer days

• One day in Palermo
• 2 days in Palermo
• 5 days in Palermo

Questions travellers ask