5 days in Jerusalem

Day by day

1. Day 1: Western Wall and Temple Mount / Haram al-Sharif and the Dome of the Rock

   Western Wall, Temple Mount / Haram al-Sharif and the Dome of the Rock and Western Wall Tunnels, then Mahane Yehuda Market in the evening.

   1. Morning

      Western Wall

      Visit on a Friday around sunset to see Shabbat being welcomed with song, but do not take photos at the plaza once Shabbat has begun. (45 minutes, free).

   2. Late morning

      Temple Mount / Haram al-Sharif and the Dome of the Rock

      Visiting hours are short and can change or be cancelled at short notice, so check locally the day before and arrive early; dress modestly and leave religious items behind. (1 hour, free).

   3. Lunch

      Lunch: Hummus

      Counters in the Muslim and Christian quarters around Al-Wad Street, and near Mahane Yehuda.

   4. Afternoon

      Western Wall Tunnels

      Tours are not suitable for anyone uncomfortable in narrow passages; wear shoes with grip. (75 minutes, low cost).

   5. Evening

      Mahane Yehuda Market

      Visit twice: on Friday morning for the pre-Shabbat rush, and on a weekday evening for the bars.

2. Day 2: Church of the Holy Sepulchre and Via Dolorosa

   Church of the Holy Sepulchre, Via Dolorosa and Israel Museum, then Tower of David Museum in the evening.

   1. Morning

      Church of the Holy Sepulchre

      Arrive early in the morning to see the Aedicule with a short queue, and dress with shoulders and knees covered. (1–1.5 hours, free).

   2. Late morning

      Via Dolorosa

      Walk it early in the morning, before shops open and the lanes fill with tour groups. (1 hour, free).

   3. Lunch

      Lunch: Jerusalem mixed grill

      Grills along Agrippas Street beside Mahane Yehuda market.

   4. Afternoon

      Israel Museum

      Start with the Shrine of the Book and the city model before the galleries fill, then pick one wing. (3–4 hours, mid-priced).

   5. Evening

      Tower of David Museum

      Climb Phasael Tower at the start of your stay to get your bearings over the four quarters.

3. Day 3: Old City walls and Ramparts Walk and Jewish Quarter, Cardo and Hurva Synagogue

   Old City walls and Ramparts Walk, Jewish Quarter, Cardo and Hurva Synagogue and Damascus Gate and the Muslim Quarter souq, then Mahane Yehuda in the evening.

   1. Morning

      Old City walls and Ramparts Walk

      Start at Jaffa Gate and take the northern section towards Damascus Gate for the best views into the Christian and Muslim quarters. (1–2 hours, low cost).

   2. Late morning

      Jewish Quarter, Cardo and Hurva Synagogue

      Climb to the Hurva's balcony for one of the best views across to the Mount of Olives. (2 hours, low cost).

   3. Lunch

      Lunch: Ka'ak al-Quds

      Carts and bakeries around Damascus Gate and inside the Muslim Quarter.

   4. Afternoon

      Damascus Gate and the Muslim Quarter souq

      Stop for warm knafeh at a sweet shop off Souq Khan al-Zeit; it is best mid-morning. (1–2 hours, free).

   5. Evening

      Mahane Yehuda

      Market stalls turn into bars and small restaurants after dark, with music in the lanes on Thursday nights.

4. Day 4: Day trip to Bethlehem

   About 30–45 minutes by bus or taxi each way. Getting there: Organised tour or Arab bus from near Damascus Gate.

   1. Morning

      Travel to Bethlehem

      About 30–45 minutes by bus or taxi (Organised tour or Arab bus from near Damascus Gate); about 10 km.

   2. Day

      Bethlehem

      Bethlehem, in the West Bank, is home to the Church of the Nativity, a UNESCO World Heritage Site built over the grotto venerated as the birthplace of Jesus, and Manger Square. Best for culture and first-timers.

   3. Evening

      Back in Jerusalem

      Dinner: try Knafeh.

5. Day 5: Mount of Olives and Garden of Gethsemane and Church of All Nations

   Mount of Olives, Garden of Gethsemane and Church of All Nations and City of David archaeological park, then Shlomtzion HaMalka and Nahalat Shiva in the evening.

   1. Morning

      Mount of Olives

      Take a taxi to the top in the morning, when the sun is behind you, and walk down past the churches to Gethsemane. (2 hours, free).

   2. Late morning

      Garden of Gethsemane and Church of All Nations

      Combine it with the walk down from the Mount of Olives and enter the Old City through Lions' Gate. (45 minutes, free).

   3. Lunch

      Lunch: Knafeh

      Sweet shops in the Muslim Quarter, especially off Souq Khan al-Zeit.

   4. Afternoon

      City of David archaeological park

      Bring water shoes and a torch or phone light for Hezekiah's Tunnel; a dry alternative tunnel is available. (2–3 hours, mid-priced).

   5. Evening

      Shlomtzion HaMalka and Nahalat Shiva

      Pubs, wine bars and late restaurants in the streets around Jaffa Road and Zion Square.

Before you go

Reserve timed tickets for Western Wall Tunnels and Tower of David Museum before you travel; the rest of this plan needs no advance booking.

Where to stay for this itinerary

With 5 nights, Old City keeps most of this route within easy reach. For a calmer or cheaper base, Mamilla and Jaffa Gate ($$$$) suits luxury, couples, first-timers and shopping. Compare every area.

Pace and daylight

The sights in this plan add up to roughly 20–25 hours of visiting over 5 days, before meals and getting between them. Daylight runs from about 10.1 hours in December to 14.2 hours in June, so in winter start early and keep museums for the afternoon.

More or fewer days

• One day in Jerusalem
• 2 days in Jerusalem
• 3 days in Jerusalem

Questions travellers ask