Oaxaca nightlife

Where to go out

Nightlife tips

• Mezcal is strong; order smaller pours of different agaves rather than several large ones.
• Taxis wait near the Zócalo and Santo Domingo late at night; agree the fare before getting in.

Evening sights

Landmark · Centro Histórico

Zócalo and Cathedral

Take a coffee under the arcades in the early evening, when the square is at its liveliest and the marimba players set up.

Time needed

1 hour

Cost

Free

• Free
• Iconic
• History
• After dark

Street · Santo Domingo and the Andador

Andador Macedonio Alcalá

Walk it twice: in the morning for galleries and shops, and after dark when calendas and street performers take over.

Time needed

1 hour

Cost

Free

• Free
• Shopping
• After dark
• Architecture

Experience · Centro Histórico

Mezcal tasting

Ask for the agave type and the producer's village for each pour, and sip slowly; artisanal mezcal can be well above 45% alcohol.

Time needed

1–2 hours

Cost

Mid-priced

• Food
• After dark
• Couples

What to drink

• Oaxacan hot chocolate — Cacao ground with sugar, almonds and cinnamon, whisked into water or milk until foamy and served with pan de yema, an egg bread made for dunking. Chocolate atole topped with cacao foam is another version.
• Tejate — A cold, pre-Hispanic drink of maize, cacao, mamey seed and rosita de cacao flowers, beaten by hand until a pale foam forms on top, served in a painted gourd.
• Mezcal — An agave spirit whose hearts are roasted in earth pits, crushed and distilled; most of Mexico's mezcal comes from Oaxaca. Espadín is the common agave, while wild varieties such as tobalá and tepeztate are rarer and pricier.

Evenings through the year

Sunset and the overnight low decide how long the outdoor part of a night lasts. April has the warmest evenings, with lows around 14°C (57°F).

Getting home late

• Walking — The Zócalo, markets, Andador, Santo Domingo and Jalatlaco are all within a 15–20 minute walk; pavements are narrow and uneven in places.
• Taxi — Ask your hotel what a fair fare is for longer trips.
• Bus — Second-class buses towards Tlacolula and Mitla run along the Carretera Internacional, while first-class ADO coaches link Oaxaca with Mexico City, Puebla and the coast from the terminal on Calzada Niños Héroes de Chapultepec.
• Taxi — Shared colectivo taxis to the villages leave from stops on the edge of the centre and near the Central de Abastos market, carrying four or five passengers for a fixed fare per seat.

Late-night bites

• Tlayuda — Evening street stalls across the city and the grill stands in the 20 de Noviembre market; ask for it sin asiento for a vegetarian version.
• Quesillo — Cheese stalls in the Benito Juárez market; buy a small ball to eat as it is.
• Chapulines — Market vendors in the Benito Juárez and 20 de Noviembre markets sell them by the scoop; try a small portion first.
• Empanada de amarillo — Market stalls and street comales, especially in the mornings and at the Sunday Tlacolula market.

Staying safe at night

The centre is generally calm for visitors, but watch for pickpockets in crowded markets and during festivals. Political demonstrations and road blockades are common in Oaxaca; they are usually peaceful but can occupy the Zócalo or close roads, so avoid them and check locally before long drives.

Emergency number

911

Where to stay for nightlife

Questions travellers ask