2 days in Oaxaca

Day by day

1. Day 1: Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán and Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca

   Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán, Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca, Jardín Etnobotánico de Oaxaca and Andador Macedonio Alcalá, then Zócalo and Cathedral in the evening.

   1. Morning

      Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán

      Look for the genealogical tree of Saint Dominic's family on the ceiling beneath the choir, and the Rosary Chapel, a riot of gold leaf, to the right of the nave. The plaza and agave beds outside are the city's favourite meeting point.

   2. Late morning

      Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca

      Its star exhibit is the treasure of Tomb 7 at Monte Albán: Mixtec gold, jade, turquoise and carved bone found in 1932. Upper-floor windows look down over the Ethnobotanical Garden.

   3. Lunch

      Lunch: Mole negro

      Fondas in the 20 de Noviembre market and traditional restaurants in the centre; mole pastes are sold by the kilo in the Benito Juárez market.

   4. Afternoon

      Jardín Etnobotánico de Oaxaca

      The planting is striking against the church walls, and guides explain each plant's traditional use.

   5. Late afternoon

      Andador Macedonio Alcalá

      In the evenings, street musicians and wedding processions with giant puppets (monos de calenda) and brass bands often pass along it.

   6. Evening

      Zócalo and Cathedral

      Take a coffee under the arcades in the early evening, when the square is at its liveliest and the marimba players set up.

2. Day 2: Monte Albán and Mercado 20 de Noviembre

   Monte Albán, Mercado 20 de Noviembre, Mercado Benito Juárez and Museo Textil de Oaxaca, then Mezcal tasting in the evening.

   1. Morning

      Monte Albán

      Its Great Plaza is ringed by pyramids, a ball court and the Danzantes, carved stone figures among the oldest monuments in the site. Views stretch across all three arms of the Oaxaca valley.

   2. Late morning

      Mercado 20 de Noviembre

      Fondas around the edges serve mole and hot chocolate.

   3. Lunch

      Lunch: Tlayuda

      Evening street stalls across the city and the grill stands in the 20 de Noviembre market; ask for it sin asiento for a vegetarian version.

   4. Afternoon

      Mercado Benito Juárez

      It is the best place to try tejate, the frothy cold maize-and-cacao drink served from painted gourds.

   5. Late afternoon

      Museo Textil de Oaxaca

      Its shop sells pieces bought directly from weavers in the state.

   6. Evening

      Mezcal tasting

      Ask for the agave type and the producer's village for each pour, and sip slowly; artisanal mezcal can be well above 45% alcohol.

Before you go

• Jardín Etnobotánico de Oaxaca: Visits are by guided tour only; reserve a place at the entrance a day or two ahead, especially for English tours.

If it rains

• Swap in Museo de Arte Prehispánico Rufino Tamayo (Centro Histórico): Allow an hour and combine it with lunch nearby; the museum is small enough to see without fatigue.
• Swap in Instituto de Artes Gráficas de Oaxaca (Santo Domingo and the Andador): Use the courtyard as a calm break from the Andador, and ask about other cultural centres Toledo founded in the city.
• Swap in Oaxacan cooking class (Centro Histórico): Choose a class that includes the market visit; seeing chilhuacle and pasilla chiles on sale helps you recognise moles afterwards.

Where to stay for this itinerary

Pace and daylight

The sights in this plan add up to roughly 12–15 hours of visiting over 2 days, before meals and getting between them. Daylight runs from about 11.1 hours in December to 13.1 hours in June.

Getting between stops: Walking. The Zócalo, markets, Andador, Santo Domingo and Jalatlaco are all within a 15–20 minute walk; pavements are narrow and uneven in places.

More or fewer days

• One day in Oaxaca
• 3 days in Oaxaca
• 5 days in Oaxaca

Questions travellers ask