Food · Marseille · France
What to eat in Marseille
The dishes, drinks and food experiences that define Marseille, and where locals actually eat them.
Updated By the AMZBooking editorial team
Photo: Earth777, CC BY-SA 4.0
Quick answer
Start with Bouillabaisse, Panisse and Chichi frégi. Fishermen sell their catch straight from the boats at the Vieux-Port every morning; it is more spectacle than shopping for visitors, but shows what goes into a bouillabaisse. Lunch runs from about noon to 2pm and dinner from about 7:30pm; many restaurants do not serve in between.
Key facts
- Signature dish
- Bouillabaisse
- Vegetarian-friendly picks
- 4
- Tipping
- Service is included in restaurant prices by law.
- Food experiences
- 4
10 foods to try
Dish
1.Bouillabaisse
Marseille's famous fish stew is made from several Mediterranean rockfish such as scorpionfish (rascasse) and John Dory. It is served in two stages: the saffron broth with toasted bread and rouille sauce, then the fish carved at the table. A proper bouillabaisse is expensive and often ordered for at least two people.
Where: Seafood restaurants around the Vallon des Auffes, the Corniche and the Vieux-Port; some ask you to order a day ahead.
Street food · Vegetarian
2.Panisse
Chickpea-flour batter cooked, cooled, cut into thick sticks and fried until crisp outside and soft inside, seasoned with salt and pepper. It is a classic snack in the old fishing district of L'Estaque.
Where: Kiosks along the seafront at L'Estaque and some bars and restaurants in the centre as a side dish.
Street food · Vegetarian
3.Chichi frégi
Long, ridged fritters of dough fried and rolled in sugar, eaten warm from a paper bag on the seafront. They are the sweet partner to panisse at L'Estaque.
Where: Snack kiosks on the waterfront at L'Estaque, especially on weekends.
Snack · Vegetarian
4.Navettes
Hard, boat-shaped biscuits flavoured with orange-flower water, said to recall the boat that brought the saints to Provence. They are linked to Candlemas at the Abbaye Saint-Victor but sold all year.
Where: The historic bakery next to the Abbaye Saint-Victor and bakeries across the city.
Drink · Vegetarian
5.Pastis
Anise-flavoured spirit that turns cloudy when diluted with five or so parts of cold water. It became Marseille's signature aperitif after Paul Ricard launched his version in the city in 1932.
Where: Any café terrace at aperitif time, usually served with a jug of water and ice on the side.
Dish
6.Grand aïoli
A Provençal feast built around aïoli, a pungent garlic and olive-oil emulsion, served with poached salt cod, boiled vegetables, eggs and sometimes whelks. It is traditionally a Friday lunch dish.
Where: Traditional Provençal restaurants, often as a Friday special.
Dish
7.Pieds paquets
Little parcels of lamb tripe stuffed with salt pork and garlic, slow-cooked with lamb's feet in tomato and white wine. It is an old Marseille speciality for adventurous eaters.
Where: Old-fashioned Marseille bistros and some butchers in Noailles, often sold ready-cooked in jars.
Dish
8.Marseille pizza
Marseille has a long wood-fired pizza tradition brought by Italian immigrants, with thin bases and simple toppings. Locals often order a 'moitié-moitié', half anchovy and half cheese.
Where: Old pizzerias in the centre and pizza vans parked around the city in the evening.
Dish
9.Fish soup with rouille (Soupe de poissons)
A smooth, deep-orange soup of blended rockfish served with croutons, grated cheese and rouille, a garlic and saffron sauce. It gives the flavour of bouillabaisse for a fraction of the price.
Where: Restaurants around the Vieux-Port and the Vallon des Auffes; jars are sold at fishmongers and markets.
Dish
10.Sea urchins (Oursins)
Mediterranean sea urchins are cut open and eaten raw with a spoon and bread in winter, when the coral-coloured roe is in season. Coastal towns west of Marseille hold sea-urchin festivals on winter Sundays.
Where: Fishmongers and seafood restaurants in winter, and the Oursinades festival in Carry-le-Rouet.
Food experiences
Morning fish market
Fishermen sell their catch straight from the boats at the Vieux-Port every morning; it is more spectacle than shopping for visitors, but shows what goes into a bouillabaisse.
Noailles food walk
Wander the market streets around Rue Longue des Capucins for North African pastries, msemen flatbreads, spices, olives and mint tea, all at low prices.
Bouillabaisse by the sea
Book a table at a restaurant in the Vallon des Auffes or on the Corniche for a long lunch of bouillabaisse; ask whether the restaurant follows the traditional recipe and how many people it serves.
Panisse at L'Estaque
Take the summer boat shuttle or a bus to the old fishing port of L'Estaque, once painted by Cézanne and Braque, for panisse and chichi frégi on the seafront.
Quick bites and street food
- Panisse — Kiosks along the seafront at L'Estaque and some bars and restaurants in the centre as a side dish.
- Chichi frégi — Snack kiosks on the waterfront at L'Estaque, especially on weekends.
- Navettes — The historic bakery next to the Abbaye Saint-Victor and bakeries across the city.
Vegetarian options
Of the 10 foods in this guide, 4 are usually vegetarian: Panisse, Chichi frégi, Navettes and Pastis. Check preparation with staff, as stocks and fats vary.
Eating out: tips and etiquette
- Lunch runs from about noon to 2pm and dinner from about 7:30pm; many restaurants do not serve in between.
- Bouillabaisse is priced per person and often requires a minimum of two; check the price before ordering.
- Tap water ('une carafe d'eau') is free in restaurants.
- Restaurants facing the Vieux-Port charge for the view; walk a street or two back for better value.
- Book seafood restaurants at the Vallon des Auffes and in Les Goudes ahead on summer weekends.
Tipping
Service is included in restaurant prices by law. Leaving small change or a euro or two for good service is common; up to about 5–10% is generous in upmarket restaurants.
| Phrase | Meaning |
|---|---|
| Bonjour | Hello / good day |
| Un pastis, s'il vous plaît | A pastis, please |
| L'addition, s'il vous plaît | The bill, please |
| Peuchère | Poor thing / what a pity (local expression) |
| Fada | Crazy (Marseille slang) |
Questions travellers ask
+What food is Marseille famous for?
Bouillabaisse, Panisse, Chichi frégi and Navettes. Marseille's famous fish stew is made from several Mediterranean rockfish such as scorpionfish (rascasse) and John Dory.
+Is Marseille good for vegetarians?
Several local staples are meat-free, including Panisse, Chichi frégi and Navettes.
+Do you tip in restaurants in Marseille?
Service is included in restaurant prices by law. Leaving small change or a euro or two for good service is common; up to about 5–10% is generous in upmarket restaurants.