Food · Lyon · France
What to eat in Lyon
The dishes, drinks and food experiences that define Lyon, and where locals actually eat them.
Updated By the AMZBooking editorial team
Photo: Aldg692VX, CC BY-SA 4.0
Quick answer
Start with Pike quenelles, Sausage in brioche and Lyonnaise salad. Lyon's traditional small restaurants serve hearty set menus of salads, charcuterie, quenelles and cheese at shared or tightly packed tables; the official 'Bouchons Lyonnais' plaque marks certified ones. Lunch is usually served from about noon to 2pm and dinner from 7:30pm; many kitchens close between.
Key facts
- Signature dish
- Pike quenelles
- Vegetarian-friendly picks
- 5
- Tipping
- Service is included by law.
- Food experiences
- 4
10 foods to try
Dish
1.Pike quenelles (Quenelle de brochet, sauce Nantua)
A light dumpling of pike and panade baked until puffed in a creamy crayfish sauce, the signature dish of Lyonnais cooking.
Where: Traditional bouchons in Vieux Lyon and the Presqu'île; charcuteries and the Halles sell them ready to bake.
Dish
2.Sausage in brioche (Saucisson brioché)
A thick cooking sausage, sometimes studded with pistachios or truffle, baked inside a golden brioche loaf and served in slices, often with a green salad.
Where: Bouchons as a starter, and charcuteries and bakeries to take away.
Dish
3.Lyonnaise salad (Salade lyonnaise)
Bitter frisée lettuce with crisp lardons, garlic croutons and a soft poached egg, dressed with a sharp mustard vinaigrette.
Where: Almost every bouchon and brasserie in the city.
Snack · Vegetarian
4.Silk worker's brain (Cervelle de canut)
Despite the name, a fresh cheese whipped with herbs, shallots, garlic, olive oil and vinegar, eaten with bread or potatoes; it was the silk weavers' cheap staple.
Where: Bouchons, usually as a starter or before the cheese course.
Dish
5.Fried tripe (Tablier de sapeur)
Beef tripe marinated in white wine and mustard, breaded and fried, served with gribiche or garlic sauce. A true bouchon classic for adventurous eaters.
Where: Traditional bouchons; look for menus that list the old Lyonnais dishes.
Dessert · Vegetarian
6.Pink praline tart (Tarte aux pralines)
A shortcrust tart filled with melted pink sugar-coated almonds and cream, set into a rich, bright-pink filling. Pink pralines also stud Lyon's brioches.
Where: Pâtisseries and bakeries across the city and bouchon dessert menus.
Snack · Vegetarian
7.Saint-Marcellin
A small, soft cow's-milk cheese from the nearby Isère, served young and fresh or ripened until runny and eaten with a spoon.
Where: Cheesemongers in the Halles Paul Bocuse and on the Croix-Rousse market, and bouchon cheese courses.
Dish
8.Andouillette
A coarse sausage of pork or veal intestines and tripe with a strong flavour, usually grilled and served with mustard sauce and fries.
Where: Bouchons and brasseries; ask about it before ordering if you are unsure.
Dessert · Vegetarian
9.Bugnes
Thin strips of fried dough dusted with icing sugar, made in Lyon around carnival and Mardi Gras.
Where: Bakeries from January until the start of Lent.
Drink · Vegetarian
10.Lyon's local wines (Pot lyonnais)
House Beaujolais or Côtes du Rhône served in a thick-bottomed 46 cl bottle called a pot, the traditional jug of the bouchons.
Where: Bouchons and wine bars throughout the city.
Food experiences
Bouchon dinner
Lyon's traditional small restaurants serve hearty set menus of salads, charcuterie, quenelles and cheese at shared or tightly packed tables; the official 'Bouchons Lyonnais' plaque marks certified ones.
Weekend oysters at the Halles
On Saturday and Sunday late mornings, Lyonnais gather at the oyster counters of the Halles Paul Bocuse for seafood and a glass of white wine.
Croix-Rousse market
The long market along the boulevard de la Croix-Rousse runs most mornings except Mondays, with producers, cheesemongers and roast chickens.
Mâchon
The silk workers' mid-morning meal of charcuterie, offal and wine survives in a few bouchons and on special occasions; it is Lyon's most traditional food ritual.
Quick bites and street food
- Silk worker's brain — Bouchons, usually as a starter or before the cheese course.
- Saint-Marcellin — Cheesemongers in the Halles Paul Bocuse and on the Croix-Rousse market, and bouchon cheese courses.
Vegetarian options
Of the 10 foods in this guide, 5 are usually vegetarian: Silk worker's brain, Pink praline tart, Saint-Marcellin, Bugnes and Lyon's local wines. Check preparation with staff, as stocks and fats vary.
Eating out: tips and etiquette
- Lunch is usually served from about noon to 2pm and dinner from 7:30pm; many kitchens close between.
- Weekday lunch set menus (formules) are much cheaper than dinner menus, even in good restaurants.
- Many bouchons close on Sundays and Mondays and for part of August; check before you go.
- Book popular bouchons a day or two ahead, especially on Friday and Saturday evenings.
- Tap water (une carafe d'eau) is free on request.
Tipping
Service is included by law. Locals round up or leave a euro or two for good service; around 5–10% in a finer restaurant is generous but optional.
| Phrase | Meaning |
|---|---|
| Bonjour | Hello / good day |
| Merci beaucoup | Thank you very much |
| L'addition, s'il vous plaît | The bill, please |
| Un pot de Côtes du Rhône | A pot (46 cl) of Côtes du Rhône |
| Une carafe d'eau | A jug of tap water |
Questions travellers ask
+What food is Lyon famous for?
Pike quenelles, Sausage in brioche, Lyonnaise salad and Silk worker's brain. A light dumpling of pike and panade baked until puffed in a creamy crayfish sauce, the signature dish of Lyonnais cooking.
+Is Lyon good for vegetarians?
Several local staples are meat-free, including Silk worker's brain, Pink praline tart and Saint-Marcellin.
+Do you tip in restaurants in Lyon?
Service is included by law. Locals round up or leave a euro or two for good service; around 5–10% in a finer restaurant is generous but optional.