3 days in Fes

Day by day

1. Day 1: Fes el-Bali medina and Chouara Tannery

   Fes el-Bali medina, Chouara Tannery and Al-Qarawiyyin Mosque and University, then Riad rooftop sunset in the evening.

   1. Morning

      Fes el-Bali medina

      Founded in the 9th century and listed by UNESCO in 1981, Fes el-Bali is a dense walled city of souqs, fountains, mosques, funduqs and workshops, threaded by two main streets, Talaa Kebira and Talaa Seghira, that run downhill from Bab Bou Jeloud towards the Qarawiyyin.

   2. Late morning

      Chouara Tannery

      Come in the morning when the most work is happening and the colours are brightest; accept the sprig of mint offered against the smell.

   3. Lunch

      Lunch: Pastilla

      Riad restaurants and traditional dining rooms in the medina; often ordered in advance.

   4. Afternoon

      Al-Qarawiyyin Mosque and University

      Founded in 859 by Fatima al-Fihri, Al-Qarawiyyin is often described as the oldest continuously operating educational institution in the world.

   5. Evening

      Riad rooftop sunset

      Watch the medina turn gold as the calls to prayer echo from dozens of minarets.

2. Day 2: Bab Bou Jeloud (Blue Gate) and Bou Inania Madrasa

   Bab Bou Jeloud (Blue Gate), Bou Inania Madrasa and Jnan Sbil Gardens, then Courtyard dinner in the evening.

   1. Morning

      Bab Bou Jeloud (Blue Gate)

      Photograph it early in the morning before the crowds, and ignore anyone offering to guide you here unless they show an official badge.

   2. Late morning

      Bou Inania Madrasa

      Built in the 1350s by the Marinid sultan Abu Inan Faris, this theological college is one of the few religious buildings in Fes open to non-Muslims, with a courtyard of zellij, carved stucco and cedar.

   3. Lunch

      Lunch: Bissara

      Small bissara stalls in the medina lanes, mainly in the morning and in winter.

   4. Afternoon

      Jnan Sbil Gardens

      Walk through it between the Blue Gate and the Royal Palace, and let children run on the open paths.

   5. Evening

      Courtyard dinner

      A candlelit multi-course dinner by the fountain of a restored palace riad.

3. Day 3: Royal Palace gates (Dar al-Makhzen) and Mellah and Ibn Danan Synagogue

   Royal Palace gates (Dar al-Makhzen), Mellah and Ibn Danan Synagogue and Al-Attarine Madrasa, then Hammam for two in the evening.

   1. Morning

      Royal Palace gates (Dar al-Makhzen)

      The Royal Palace is not open to the public, but its main facade on Place des Alaouites, with seven huge brass doors framed by zellij and carved cedar, is one of the most photographed sights in Fes.

   2. Late morning

      Mellah and Ibn Danan Synagogue

      Visit the cemetery and synagogue together; a small tip to the caretaker is customary.

   3. Lunch

      Lunch: Khlii

      Butchers and breakfast cafés in the medina; ask your riad for a khlii and eggs breakfast.

   4. Afternoon

      Al-Attarine Madrasa

      Completed in the 1320s next to the spice market, from which it takes its name, this small Marinid madrasa has some of the most intricate decoration in Fes: bronze doors, zellij panels and cedar and stucco carving around a marble courtyard.

   5. Evening

      Hammam for two

      Book a private hammam and massage at a riad spa.

If it rains

• Swap in Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts and Crafts (Fes el-Bali): Finish on the rooftop terrace for mint tea and one of the best views in the centre of the medina.
• Swap in Traditional hammam (Fes el-Bali): For a first visit, a riad or spa hammam explains the process; bring flip-flops and a change of underwear for a public one.

Where to stay for this itinerary

With 3 nights, Fes el-Bali keeps most of this route within easy reach. For a calmer or cheaper base, Batha and Bab Bou Jeloud ($$) suits first-timers, budget, families and solo travellers. Compare every area.

Pace and daylight

The sights in this plan add up to roughly 11–13 hours of visiting over 3 days, before meals and getting between them. Daylight runs from about 9.9 hours in December to 14.4 hours in June, so in winter start early and keep museums for the afternoon.

More or fewer days

• One day in Fes
• 2 days in Fes

Questions travellers ask