Travel guide · Morocco
Fes travel guide
A car-free medieval medina of madrasas, tanneries and craft souqs
Updated By the AMZBooking editorial team
Photo: This Photo was taken by Timothy A. Gonsalves . Feel free to use my photos, but please ment, CC BY-SA 4.0
Quick answer
Fes el-Bali, the old walled medina founded in the 9th century, is a UNESCO-listed maze of thousands of lanes where donkeys and handcarts still deliver goods, and where craftsmen work leather, copper, wood and tiles much as they have for centuries. Its highlights are the Chouara tannery, the carved Bou Inania and Al-Attarine madrasas and the Al-Qarawiyyin mosque-university. Next door, Fes el-Jdid holds the Royal Palace gates and the old Jewish quarter, while the French-built Ville Nouvelle has the train station and modern hotels. Meknes, Volubilis and Chefchaouen are within reach as day trips. Plan 3 days for a first visit; the best months are March–May and October–November.
Key facts
- Country
- Morocco
- Best time to visit
- March–May and October–November
- Ideal stay
- 3 days
- Main airports
- FEZ
- Mid-range daily budget
- $90–$170 per person (estimate)
- Known for
- Fes el-Bali medina, Chouara tannery, Madrasas and zellij and Al-Qarawiyyin
Why visit Fes
- Fes el-Bali is one of the largest car-free urban areas in the world, and walking its lanes is the main event.
- The Bou Inania and Al-Attarine madrasas show some of the finest Marinid zellij tilework, carved cedar and stucco in Morocco.
- From leather-shop terraces above the Chouara tannery you can watch hides being dyed in stone vats of colour.
- Riads — traditional courtyard houses converted into guesthouses — offer rooftop views over the medina at every budget.
- Volubilis's Roman mosaics, the imperial city of Meknes and the blue town of Chefchaouen are all reachable from Fes.
Top things to do
The six sights most first-time visitors build a trip around. See all 17 things to do.
Historic site · Fes el-Bali
Fes el-Bali medina
Founded in the 9th century and listed by UNESCO in 1981, Fes el-Bali is a dense walled city of souqs, fountains, mosques, funduqs and workshops, threaded by two main streets, Talaa Kebira and Talaa Seghira, that run downhill from Bab Bou Jeloud towards the Qarawiyyin.
- Time needed
- A full day
- Cost
- Free
- Iconic
- Free
- History
- Shopping
- Photo spot
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Landmark · Batha and Bab Bou Jeloud
Bab Bou Jeloud (Blue Gate)
Built in 1913 in traditional style, the main western gate to the medina is faced with blue zellij tiles on the outside and green on the inside, framing views of the Bou Inania minaret beyond.
- Time needed
- 20 minutes
- Cost
- Free
- Iconic
- Free
- Photo spot
- Architecture
- Kids
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Historic site · Fes el-Bali
Chouara Tannery
The largest of the medina's tanneries is a honeycomb of stone vats where hides are soaked and dyed by hand, a process that has changed little in centuries.
- Time needed
- 45 minutes
- Cost
- Free
- Iconic
- Photo spot
- Kids
- Shopping
Religious site · Fes el-Bali
Al-Qarawiyyin Mosque and University
Founded in 859 by Fatima al-Fihri, Al-Qarawiyyin is often described as the oldest continuously operating educational institution in the world.
- Time needed
- 20 minutes
- Cost
- Free
- Iconic
- Free
- History
- Architecture
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Palace · Fes el-Jdid and the Mellah
Royal Palace gates (Dar al-Makhzen)
The Royal Palace is not open to the public, but its main facade on Place des Alaouites, with seven huge brass doors framed by zellij and carved cedar, is one of the most photographed sights in Fes.
- Time needed
- 20 minutes
- Cost
- Free
- Free
- Architecture
- Photo spot
- Iconic
Religious site · Batha and Bab Bou Jeloud
Bou Inania Madrasa
Built in the 1350s by the Marinid sultan Abu Inan Faris, this theological college is one of the few religious buildings in Fes open to non-Muslims, with a courtyard of zellij, carved stucco and cedar.
- Time needed
- 45 minutes
- Cost
- Low cost
- Architecture
- History
- Art
- Photo spot
Where to stay
Fes el-Bali is the easiest base for a first visit. Compare all 6 areas.
$$ · Best for first-timers, culture, couples and food lovers
Fes el-Bali
Riads deep in the medieval medina, among souqs and workshops
$$ · Best for first-timers, budget, families and solo travellers
Batha and Bab Bou Jeloud
The medina's western edge, with taxi access and cafés by the Blue Gate
$$ · Best for quiet stays, culture and couples
Andalusian Quarter
The quieter east bank of the medina around the Andalusian Mosque
$$$$ · Best for luxury, couples and families
Bab Guissa and the northern hillside
Hillside hotels with panoramic views over the medina
What to eat
- Pastilla — Fes's celebrated festive pie: layers of thin warqa pastry filled with spiced pigeon or chicken, eggs and almonds, dusted with cinnamon and icing sugar.
- Bissara — A thick soup of dried split fava beans, finished with olive oil, cumin and chilli, eaten with bread; a cheap, warming breakfast for medina workers.
- Khlii — Strips of beef preserved with spices, dried in the sun and stored in fat, a Fes speciality traditionally fried with eggs for breakfast.
- Harira — Tomato, lentil and chickpea soup with herbs and sometimes meat, served with dates and chebakia; the dish that breaks the fast in Ramadan and a cheap meal year-round.
- Tagine — Slow-cooked stews named after their conical clay pots, such as chicken with preserved lemon and olives, lamb with prunes and almonds, or kefta meatballs with eggs.
- Couscous — Steamed semolina piled with vegetables and meat, traditionally eaten by Moroccan families on Fridays after midday prayers.
When to go
The best times to visit Fes are March to May and late September to November, when days are warm and comfortable for long medina walks. July and August are very hot, often reaching the mid-30s°C, and winter is cool and wet with cold nights. Check Ramadan dates, which move each year and change opening hours.
| Season | Months | What to expect |
|---|---|---|
| Spring | March–May | Warm days, green countryside and festival season; the most popular time, so book riads early. |
| Summer | June–August | Hot and dry, with highs in the mid-30s°C; plan early starts and riad siestas. |
| Autumn | September–November | Heat fades into comfortable weather by October, with occasional rain later. |
| Winter | December–February | Cool, damp days and cold nights; quiet medina and lower prices, but choose a heated riad. |
Getting there and around
Fes–Saïss Airport is about 15 km south of the city. Taxis from the rank outside arrivals take about 20–30 minutes to the medina gates, and many riads arrange pickups that include a porter for the final walk.
Fes el-Bali is entirely on foot: no cars can enter, and lanes are too steep and narrow even for bikes. Petit taxis link the medina gates with Fes el-Jdid, the Ville Nouvelle and the train station.
Plan your days
Two days covers the medina's main sights with a guide on the first morning and free wandering after. Three days adds Fes el-Jdid, the Mellah and the Marinid Tombs at sunset, plus a cooking class or hammam; a fourth day allows Volubilis and Meknes.
Practical information
- Currency
- MAD
- Language
- Moroccan Arabic, Amazigh and French
- Plugs
- Type C and E sockets, 220 V, 50 Hz
- Tap water
- Most visitors drink bottled or filtered water; tap water is treated but can upset unaccustomed stomachs.
- Emergency number
- 19 police, 15 ambulance and fire (112 from mobiles)
- Tipping
- Leave about 10% in restaurants, small coins for porters and handcart drivers who carry luggage, and a tip for licensed guides at the end of a tour.
Check your own government's travel advice before travel. In the medina, the main issues are unofficial guides who steer visitors to shops or claim roads are closed, and pickpockets in crowded lanes; use licensed guides and keep valuables zipped away.
Flights to Fes
Questions travellers ask
+How many days do you need in Fes?
Two days covers the medina's main sights with a guide on the first morning and free wandering after. Three days adds Fes el-Jdid, the Mellah and the Marinid Tombs at sunset, plus a cooking class or hammam; a fourth day allows Volubilis and Meknes. How to split your days.
+When is the best time to visit Fes?
The best times to visit Fes are March to May and late September to November, when days are warm and comfortable for long medina walks. July and August are very hot, often reaching the mid-30s°C, and winter is cool and wet with cold nights. Check Ramadan dates, which move each year and change opening hours.
+What is Fes known for?
Fes el-Bali medina, Chouara tannery, Madrasas and zellij, Al-Qarawiyyin, Riads, Leather and ceramics and Pastilla. Fes el-Bali is one of the largest car-free urban areas in the world, and walking its lanes is the main event.
+Is Fes expensive?
Fes is affordable for international visitors: a mid-range trip costs roughly $90–$170 per person per day before flights (AMZBooking estimate). Costs and money-saving tips.
+Do you need a car in Fes?
No. A car is useless in the medina and parking is limited. Use trains, coaches or a hired driver for day trips to Volubilis, Meknes and the Middle Atlas.