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Buenos Aires

Travel guide · Argentina

Buenos Aires travel guide

Tango, steakhouses, late nights and grand avenues on the Río de la Plata

Updated By the AMZBooking editorial team

Photo: Deensel, CC BY 2.0

Quick answer

Buenos Aires spreads along the Río de la Plata in a grid of barrios, each with its own character: the colonial streets of San Telmo, the mansions and cemetery of Recoleta, the boutiques and restaurants of Palermo and the government buildings around Plaza de Mayo. Visitors come for tango, steak and Malbec, Belle Époque architecture and a famously late rhythm of life. Most stay in Palermo, Recoleta or San Telmo and get around by Subte, bus and taxi. Plan 5 days for a first visit; the best months are March–May and October–November.

Key facts

Country
Argentina
Best time to visit
March–May and October–November
Ideal stay
5 days
Main airports
EZE, AEP
Mid-range daily budget
$110–$220 per person (estimate)
Known for
Tango, Steak and Malbec, Recoleta Cemetery and Teatro Colón

Why visit Buenos Aires

  • Tango is everywhere, from street dancers in San Telmo to milongas where beginners can take a class and stay to dance.
  • Parrillas grill some of the world's most celebrated beef, served with a glass of Malbec from Mendoza.
  • Recoleta Cemetery, the Teatro Colón and the Belle Époque buildings of Avenida de Mayo reward anyone interested in architecture.
  • Each barrio feels different, and Palermo's leafy streets hold the city's densest mix of restaurants, bars and designer shops.
  • Ferries cross to Uruguay's Colonia del Sacramento, and trains reach the river islands of the Tigre delta in about an hour.

Top things to do

The six sights most first-time visitors build a trip around. See all 19 things to do.

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires
Photo: Deensel, CC BY 2.0

Historic site · Recoleta

Recoleta Cemetery

Opened in 1822, this walled city of the dead holds more than 4,600 vaults along tree-lined alleys, from marble temples to Art Nouveau chapels.

Time needed
1.5–2 hours
Cost
Low cost
  • Iconic
  • History
  • Architecture
  • Photo spot
Plaza de Mayo and Casa Rosada, Buenos Aires
Photo: ProtoplasmaKid, CC BY-SA 4.0

Landmark · Monserrat

Plaza de Mayo and Casa Rosada

The city's founding square is framed by the pink presidential palace (Casa Rosada), the colonial Cabildo where the 1810 May Revolution began, and the Metropolitan Cathedral, where grenadiers guard General San Martín's mausoleum.

Time needed
1–2 hours
Cost
Free
  • Iconic
  • History
  • Free
  • Architecture
Teatro Colón, Buenos Aires
Photo: EEJCC, CC0

Architecture · San Nicolás

Teatro Colón

Opened in 1908, the Colón is one of the world's great opera houses, famed for its acoustics, its gilded horseshoe auditorium and Raúl Soldi's painted dome.

Time needed
1 hour for a tour
Cost
Mid-priced
  • Iconic
  • Architecture
  • History
  • Rainy day
  • After dark
Caminito, La Boca, Buenos Aires
Photo: Hernán Piñera, CC BY-SA 2.0

Street · La Boca

Caminito, La Boca

This short pedestrian lane of corrugated-iron houses painted in bright colours recalls the tenements where Italian immigrants settled by the Riachuelo port.

Time needed
1–2 hours
Cost
Free
  • Iconic
  • Photo spot
  • Art
  • Free
La Bombonera and the Boca Juniors museum, Buenos Aires
Photo: ProtoplasmaKid, CC BY-SA 4.0

Landmark · La Boca

La Bombonera and the Boca Juniors museum

Boca Juniors' steep, box-shaped stadium is famous for an atmosphere that makes the stands seem to shake on match days.

Time needed
1.5 hours
Cost
Mid-priced
  • History
  • Kids
  • Iconic
Obelisco and Avenida 9 de Julio, Buenos Aires
Photo: Rodrigo Paredes from Ciudad Autónoma de Buenos Aires, Argentina, CC BY 2.0

Landmark · San Nicolás

Obelisco and Avenida 9 de Julio

The 67-metre Obelisco, built in 1936 for the 400th anniversary of the city's first founding, stands where Avenida Corrientes crosses Avenida 9 de Julio, one of the widest avenues in the world.

Time needed
30 minutes
Cost
Free
  • Iconic
  • Free
  • After dark
  • Photo spot

Where to stay

Palermo Soho is the easiest base for a first visit. Compare all 7 areas.

$$$ · Best for first-timers, shopping, food lovers, couples and nightlife

Palermo Soho

Boutiques, cafés and leafy cobbled streets around Plaza Serrano

$$$ · Best for food lovers, nightlife and solo travellers

Palermo Hollywood

Restaurant streets and late bars north of Avenida Juan B. Justo

$$$$ · Best for first-timers, couples, luxury, culture and families

Recoleta

French-style mansions, museums and the famous cemetery

$$ · Best for budget, culture, solo travellers and nightlife

San Telmo

Cobbled streets, antiques, tango and the Sunday Defensa fair

What to eat

Full Buenos Aires food guide.

  • Asado and bife de chorizo — Argentine barbecue cooks beef slowly over wood or charcoal embers on a parrilla grill.
  • Empanadas — Baked or fried pastry turnovers filled with hand-cut beef (carne cortada a cuchillo), ham and cheese, humita (sweetcorn) or chicken.
  • Choripán — A grilled chorizo sausage split into a crusty roll and spooned with chimichurri or salsa criolla; the classic snack at football matches and before an asado.
  • Provoleta — A thick disc of provolone cheese grilled until crusty outside and molten inside, sprinkled with oregano and chilli flakes; the usual vegetarian-friendly starter at a parrilla.
  • Milanesa a la napolitana — A thin breaded beef cutlet topped with ham, tomato sauce and melted cheese, usually served with fries.
  • Pizza porteña and fainá — Buenos Aires pizza, born of Italian immigration, has a thick, airy base and a heavy layer of mozzarella.

When to go

The best times to visit Buenos Aires are March to May and October to November, when days are mild, the parks are green and the jacarandas flower in late spring. Summer (December to February) is hot and humid, and many locals leave in January; winter is cool and quiet but good for museums, theatre and tango.

Buenos Aires seasons at a glance
SeasonMonthsWhat to expect
SummerDecember–FebruaryHot and humid with highs around 30°C, long evenings outdoors and a quieter city in January, when many locals head to the coast.
AutumnMarch–MayMild, settled weather, autumn colour in the parks and the busiest cultural season, with film and book festivals.
WinterJune–AugustCool days around 15°C and chilly nights; museums, theatres, cafés and the August tango festival come into their own.
SpringSeptember–NovemberWarming weather, flowering jacarandas in November and busy café terraces before the summer heat.

Month-by-month weather, crowds and prices.

Getting there and around

Ezeiza (EZE), about 35 km southwest of the centre, handles most long-haul flights; taxis, ride-hailing and airport coaches take about 45–75 minutes depending on traffic. Aeroparque (AEP), on the riverfront beside Palermo, handles domestic and many regional flights and is 15–30 minutes from Palermo and the centre.

Buenos Aires is a flat grid of long avenues, best explored on foot within each barrio and by Subte, bus or taxi between them. The Subte covers the centre, Recoleta, Palermo and Belgrano, colectivo buses go almost everywhere, and taxis and ride-hailing are a practical option for longer hops.

Buenos Aires transport guide.

Plan your days

Three days covers Plaza de Mayo, San Telmo, La Boca, Recoleta and Palermo. Five days adds a tango night, a Teatro Colón tour and a day trip to Tigre or Colonia; a week leaves time for an estancia visit and slow café days.

Practical information

Currency
ARS
Language
Spanish
Plugs
Type I (and older Type C) sockets, 220 V, 50 Hz
Tap water
Tap water in Buenos Aires is treated and generally drinkable, though many locals prefer bottled or filtered water.
Emergency number
911 police, 107 ambulance (SAME)
Tipping
Leave about 10% in restaurants and cafés, ideally in cash, as card machines often cannot add a tip; the cubierto on the bill is not a tip.

Pickpocketing and bag or phone snatching, sometimes by thieves on motorbikes, are the main risks, especially on the Subte, around Florida street, in San Telmo and at La Boca. A common trick involves a stranger 'helping' after someone spills mustard or another liquid on you; walk away and keep hold of your bag.

More Buenos Aires travel tips.

Flights to Buenos Aires

Questions travellers ask

+How many days do you need in Buenos Aires?

Three days covers Plaza de Mayo, San Telmo, La Boca, Recoleta and Palermo. Five days adds a tango night, a Teatro Colón tour and a day trip to Tigre or Colonia; a week leaves time for an estancia visit and slow café days. How to split your days.

+When is the best time to visit Buenos Aires?

The best times to visit Buenos Aires are March to May and October to November, when days are mild, the parks are green and the jacarandas flower in late spring. Summer (December to February) is hot and humid, and many locals leave in January; winter is cool and quiet but good for museums, theatre and tango.

+What is Buenos Aires known for?

Tango, Steak and Malbec, Recoleta Cemetery, Teatro Colón, Café culture, Late nights and Football. Tango is everywhere, from street dancers in San Telmo to milongas where beginners can take a class and stay to dance.

+Is Buenos Aires expensive?

Buenos Aires is moderately priced for international visitors: a mid-range trip costs roughly $110–$220 per person per day before flights (AMZBooking estimate). Costs and money-saving tips.

+Do you need a car in Buenos Aires?

No. Driving in Buenos Aires is aggressive and parking is scarce; the Subte, buses and taxis cover the city. Hire a car only for trips into the pampas or the wine regions.