Travel guide · Croatia
Hvar travel guide
Lavender hills, Venetian harbour towns and island-hopping off Split
Updated By the AMZBooking editorial team
Photo: Bernard Gagnon, CC BY-SA 4.0
Quick answer
Hvar is a long, narrow island off the Dalmatian coast, about an hour by catamaran from Split. Hvar Town, at its western end, has a Renaissance main square, a hilltop fortress and a harbour full of yachts, and it is known for its summer nightlife and the Pakleni Islands just offshore. The rest of the island is quieter: Stari Grad, founded by Greek settlers in 384 BC, and its UNESCO-listed field system; the harbour villages of Jelsa and Vrboska; and steep south-coast vineyards of Plavac Mali above small pebble coves. Plan 4 days for a first visit; the best months are May–June and September.
Key facts
- Country
- Croatia
- Best time to visit
- May–June and September
- Ideal stay
- 4 days
- Main airports
- SPU
- Mid-range daily budget
- $160–$300 per person (estimate)
- Known for
- Hvar Town harbour, Pakleni Islands, Lavender and Nightlife
Why visit Hvar
- Taxi boats from Hvar Town reach the pine-covered Pakleni Islands in 10–20 minutes, with clear-water coves and beach restaurants.
- Stari Grad is one of the oldest towns in Europe, and the Greek field divisions of the Stari Grad Plain are still farmed today.
- In June and early July, lavender blooms on the terraces around Velo Grablje and Brusje.
- Small family wineries in the south-coast villages and around Jelsa produce Plavac Mali reds and Bogdanuša whites.
- The island combines a lively harbour scene in Hvar Town with quiet villages such as Vrboska and Milna.
Top things to do
The six sights most first-time visitors build a trip around. See all 13 things to do.
Landmark · Hvar Town
St Stephen's Square and Hvar Cathedral
Hvar Town's main square, one of the largest in Dalmatia, runs from the harbour to the Renaissance-Baroque Cathedral of St Stephen and its four-storey bell tower.
- Time needed
- 30 minutes
- Cost
- Free
- Free
- Iconic
- Architecture
- History
Castle · Hvar Town
Fortica (Spanish Fortress)
The 16th-century fortress on the hill above Hvar Town gives the classic view over the harbour's red roofs, the Pakleni Islands and, on clear days, Vis.
- Time needed
- 1–1.5 hours
- Cost
- Low cost
- Views
- Iconic
- Photo spot
- History
- Kids
Island · Pakleni Islands
Pakleni Islands
A chain of pine-covered islets just off Hvar Town, reached by taxi boats from the harbour in 10–20 minutes.
- Time needed
- Full day
- Cost
- Low cost
- Iconic
- Outdoors
- Couples
- Kids
- Nature
Historic site · Hvar Town
Arsenal and Hvar Theatre
The Venetian Arsenal on the square once housed the galley of the Hvar commune.
- Time needed
- 45 minutes
- Cost
- Low cost
- History
- Architecture
- Rainy day
Religious site · Hvar Town
Franciscan Monastery
On a headland at the south end of the harbour, the 15th-century Franciscan monastery has a peaceful cloister, a garden with an old cypress and a museum whose highlight is a large Last Supper painting.
- Time needed
- 45 minutes
- Cost
- Low cost
- History
- Art
- Off the beaten path
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Historic site · Stari Grad
Stari Grad Plain
Greek settlers from Paros divided this fertile plain into rectangular plots bounded by dry-stone walls in the 4th century BC, and many of the boundaries and roads are still used for vines and olives.
- Time needed
- 2–3 hours
- Cost
- Free
- Free
- History
- Outdoors
- Active
Where to stay
Hvar Town is the easiest base for a first visit. Compare all 6 areas.
$$$$ · Best for nightlife, first-timers, luxury and couples
Hvar Town
Renaissance square, fortress and yacht-filled harbour at the island's western tip
$$ · Best for families, culture, quiet stays and budget
Stari Grad
Ancient harbour town at the end of a deep bay, by the main car ferry
$$ · Best for families, quiet stays, beach and food lovers
Jelsa
Harbour town with pine woods, beaches and a central square of cafés
$$ · Best for quiet stays, couples and families
Vrboska
Tiny fishing village of stone bridges over a narrow inlet
What to eat
- Hvar gregada — A traditional fishermen's stew of white fish, potatoes, garlic, onion and olive oil, slowly simmered with white wine.
- Peka — Lamb, veal or octopus slow-cooked with potatoes under a domed iron bell covered in embers.
- Hvar paprenjak — Crunchy biscuits made with honey and black pepper, pressed with decorative patterns, an old recipe from the island.
- Grilled fish with blitva — Whole fish from the Adriatic grilled with olive oil and garlic, served with blitva, Swiss chard boiled with potatoes and olive oil.
- Octopus salad — Tender boiled octopus with potatoes, onion, capers, olive oil and vinegar, served as a cold starter.
- Dalmatian pršut and cheese — Air-dried ham and hard sheep's cheese, served with olives and bread as a starter platter with a glass of wine.
When to go
The best times to visit Hvar are May to June and September, when the sea is warm, the island is open and crowds are smaller than in July and August. Late June adds the lavender bloom. Midsummer is hot, busy and the highest-priced. From November to February most hotels, restaurants and bars close and ferry schedules are reduced.
| Season | Months | What to expect |
|---|---|---|
| Spring | March–May | Wild flowers, Easter processions and mild weather, with businesses reopening through April and May and a cool sea. |
| Summer | June–August | Lavender in June, hot sunny days, warm sea and peak nightlife, but heavy crowds and high prices in July and August. |
| Autumn | September–November | Warm sea and grape harvest in September, quieter October, then closures and rain in November. |
| Winter | December–February | Mild but wet and windy, with most tourist services closed and limited ferry connections. |
Getting there and around
The nearest major airport is Split, about 25 km from Split's ferry port. Allow about 30–45 minutes by bus or taxi to the harbour, then about 1 hour by catamaran to Hvar Town or about 2 hours by car ferry to Stari Grad.
Hvar Town's centre is car-free and walkable. Buses connect Hvar Town, Stari Grad and Jelsa, timed partly with the ferries, while taxi boats serve the Pakleni Islands and nearby coves. A car or scooter is the easiest way to reach the south coast and inland villages.
Plan your days
Two days covers Hvar Town, the fortress and a day on the Pakleni Islands. Four days lets you add Stari Grad, Vrboska and Jelsa and a south-coast beach or winery; with a week, add boat trips to the Blue Cave and Vis or hop to Korčula.
Practical information
- Currency
- EUR
- Language
- Croatian
- Plugs
- Type C and F sockets, 230 V, 50 Hz
- Tap water
- Tap water is generally safe to drink, but in high season many visitors and some hosts prefer bottled water.
- Emergency number
- 112 (European emergency number)
- Tipping
- Tipping is appreciated but not obligatory.
Hvar is generally relaxed. Take care with summer heat, strong sun and dehydration, and with sea urchins on rocky beaches. Roads are narrow and winding, so drive or ride scooters carefully. In Hvar Town, drink sensibly at night and respect local rules on public drinking.
Flights to Hvar
Questions travellers ask
+How many days do you need in Hvar?
Two days covers Hvar Town, the fortress and a day on the Pakleni Islands. Four days lets you add Stari Grad, Vrboska and Jelsa and a south-coast beach or winery; with a week, add boat trips to the Blue Cave and Vis or hop to Korčula. How to split your days.
+When is the best time to visit Hvar?
The best times to visit Hvar are May to June and September, when the sea is warm, the island is open and crowds are smaller than in July and August. Late June adds the lavender bloom. Midsummer is hot, busy and the highest-priced. From November to February most hotels, restaurants and bars close and ferry schedules are reduced.
+What is Hvar known for?
Hvar Town harbour, Pakleni Islands, Lavender, Nightlife, Stari Grad Plain, Plavac Mali wine and Sunshine. Taxi boats from Hvar Town reach the pine-covered Pakleni Islands in 10–20 minutes, with clear-water coves and beach restaurants.
+Is Hvar expensive?
Hvar is expensive for international visitors: a mid-range trip costs roughly $160–$300 per person per day before flights (AMZBooking estimate). Costs and money-saving tips.
+Do you need a car in Hvar?
Not for Hvar Town and the Pakleni Islands, which are served by walking and taxi boats. A car or scooter is needed for the south coast, the inland villages and remote beaches.