Food · Sarajevo · Bosnia and Herzegovina
What to eat in Sarajevo
The dishes, drinks and food experiences that define Sarajevo, and where locals actually eat them.
Updated By the AMZBooking editorial team
Photo: Julian Nyča, CC BY-SA 4.0
Quick answer
Start with Ćevapi, Burek and pita and Bosnian coffee. Join locals at a ćevabdžinica on Bravadžiluk for a portion of ćevapi with onion and kajmak, followed by yoghurt to drink; meals are quick and very cheap. Ćevabdžinicas and buregdžinicas usually serve no alcohol; restaurants elsewhere generally do.
Key facts
- Signature dish
- Ćevapi
- Vegetarian-friendly picks
- 5
- Tipping
- Tipping is not obligatory.
- Food experiences
- 4
11 foods to try
Dish
1.Ćevapi
Small grilled minced-meat sausages served in a portion of five or ten inside fluffy somun bread with raw onion and kajmak (clotted cream). Sarajevo's ćevapi are typically made of beef.
Where: Ćevabdžinicas along Bravadžiluk and around Baščaršija; order 'pola' for a half portion.
Street food
2.Burek and pita
Coiled filo pies baked in round trays: burek is always filled with minced meat, while sirnica (cheese), zeljanica (spinach and cheese) and krompiruša (potato) are its vegetarian cousins. They are often eaten with yoghurt.
Where: Buregdžinicas in Baščaršija and across the city; the best come out of the oven under a metal lid (sač).
Drink · Vegetarian
3.Bosnian coffee (Bosanska kahva)
Finely ground coffee boiled in a copper džezva and served on a tray with a small cup, a sugar cube and a piece of rahat lokum. It is meant to be sipped slowly over conversation.
Where: Traditional coffee houses in Baščaršija and Morića Han; locals dip the sugar cube in the coffee and bite it.
Dish
4.Begova čorba
'Bey's soup', a thick, creamy soup of chicken, okra and vegetables, thickened with egg yolk and sour cream, once served to Ottoman nobility.
Where: Traditional restaurants serving Bosnian home cooking in Baščaršija.
Dish
5.Klepe
Small dumplings filled with minced meat and onion, served with garlic yoghurt and a drizzle of melted butter and paprika.
Where: Aščinicas (traditional cookhouses) and Bosnian restaurants in the old town.
Dish
6.Sogan dolma and japrak
Stuffed vegetables in the Ottoman tradition: sogan dolma are onions filled with meat and rice, japrak are vine or chard leaves rolled around a similar filling.
Where: Aščinicas in Baščaršija, where dishes are displayed behind the counter for you to point at.
Dish
7.Bosanski lonac
A slow-cooked stew of layered meat and vegetables such as cabbage, potatoes and tomatoes, traditionally cooked in a clay pot.
Where: Traditional restaurants, especially in the colder months.
Dessert · Vegetarian
8.Tufahija
An apple poached in sugar syrup, stuffed with walnuts and topped with whipped cream, a delicate Ottoman-era dessert.
Where: Old-style pastry shops (slastičarne) in Baščaršija.
Dessert · Vegetarian
9.Baklava and hurmašica
Layered filo baklava with walnuts and syrup, and hurmašica, date-shaped syrup-soaked biscuits, are the staples of Sarajevo's pastry shops.
Where: Slastičarne throughout Baščaršija and Ferhadija.
Bakery · Vegetarian
10.Somun
A round, soft leavened flatbread with a chequered top, eaten with ćevapi and baked in especially large quantities during Ramadan.
Where: Bakeries across Sarajevo; every ćevapi shop serves it.
Drink · Vegetarian
11.Sarajevsko pivo
The local lager from the Sarajevo Brewery, founded in 1864, whose spring supplied water to residents during the siege.
Where: Bars and restaurants citywide, and the brewery's own restaurant in Bistrik.
Food experiences
Ćevapi in Baščaršija
Join locals at a ćevabdžinica on Bravadžiluk for a portion of ćevapi with onion and kajmak, followed by yoghurt to drink; meals are quick and very cheap.
Aščinica lunch
Traditional cookhouses display stews, stuffed vegetables and soups behind glass; point at what you want for a home-style Bosnian meal.
Coffee ritual
Spend half an hour over a Bosnian coffee and rahat lokum in a coffee house; it is as much about conversation as caffeine.
Ramadan iftar
During Ramadan, the city gathers at sunset for the cannon from the Yellow Fortress and breaks the fast with somun, dates and shared meals; many restaurants serve special iftar menus.
Quick bites and street food
- Burek and pita — Buregdžinicas in Baščaršija and across the city; the best come out of the oven under a metal lid (sač).
- Somun — Bakeries across Sarajevo; every ćevapi shop serves it.
Vegetarian options
Of the 11 foods in this guide, 5 are usually vegetarian: Bosnian coffee, Tufahija, Baklava and hurmašica, Somun and Sarajevsko pivo. Check preparation with staff, as stocks and fats vary.
Eating out: tips and etiquette
- Ćevabdžinicas and buregdžinicas usually serve no alcohol; restaurants elsewhere generally do.
- Portions are large; a half portion (pola) of ćevapi is often enough for lunch.
- Smoking is still common in some cafés and restaurants; ask for a non-smoking area if it matters to you.
- Cash in convertible marks (KM) is useful in small eateries, though cards are increasingly accepted.
- Drink yoghurt with burek and ćevapi as locals do.
Tipping
Tipping is not obligatory. Rounding up the bill or leaving about 10% in sit-down restaurants is appreciated; round up for taxis.
| Phrase | Meaning |
|---|---|
| Dobar dan | Good day / hello |
| Merhaba | Hello (informal, common in Sarajevo) |
| Hvala | Thank you |
| Molim | Please / you're welcome |
| Račun, molim | The bill, please |
| Živjeli | Cheers |
Questions travellers ask
+What food is Sarajevo famous for?
Ćevapi, Burek and pita, Bosnian coffee and Begova čorba. Small grilled minced-meat sausages served in a portion of five or ten inside fluffy somun bread with raw onion and kajmak (clotted cream).
+Is Sarajevo good for vegetarians?
Several local staples are meat-free, including Bosnian coffee, Tufahija and Baklava and hurmašica.
+Do you tip in restaurants in Sarajevo?
Tipping is not obligatory. Rounding up the bill or leaving about 10% in sit-down restaurants is appreciated; round up for taxis.